You have a perfect design and you want to share it with others, or maybe you created something beautiful and want to remember how you made it.
Or perhaps you’re ready to sell your designs and earn passive income.
Either way, knowing how to write a proper crochet pattern is essential, but you do not know how write a crochet pattern that looks like those fancy patterns you see online.
do not worry, in this guide I’ll break down exactly what makes a crochet pattern clear, professional, and user-friendly.
Why Pattern Writing Matters (Even for Beginners)
You don’t need to be a professional designer to write a crochet pattern.
Good pattern writing means:
- Your readers can actually follow your instructions
- You spend less time answering questions in DMs
- People trust your patterns enough to buy more
- Your designs get recommended to others
Before You Start: What Every Crochet Pattern Needs
A crochet pattern is basically a roadmap. You’re guiding someone from yarn and hook to finished project.
To do that well, your pattern needs these core elements:
Essential Pattern Components:
- Clear materials list with specific yarn details
- Accurate gauge information
- Skill level indication
- Complete abbreviation guide
- Step-by-step instructions with stitch counts
- Assembly guidance (if needed)
- Finished measurements
Miss any of these, and your pattern becomes frustrating instead of helpful.
Step 1: Start With Crystal-Clear Pattern Basics
The top of your pattern sets expectations. Be honest and specific.
Showcase your brand and product on the first page.
Then start with the essential information a crocheter need to know before starting out like:
Skill Level (And Why It Matters)
Don’t call an advanced pattern “easy” just to get more downloads.
Be truthful about what your pattern requires:
- Beginner: Basic stitches only (chain, single crochet, double crochet)
- Easy: Simple stitch combinations and shaping
- Intermediate: Color changes, multiple pieces to assemble, pattern repeats
- Advanced: Complex shaping, intricate stitch patterns, garment construction
Add a quick note explaining your rating: Intermediate – involves color changes and sewing multiple pieces together.
Finished Size and Construction Method
Tell readers exactly what they’re making:
- Approximately 12 inches (30 cm) square using recommended yarn
- Worked in continuous rounds or Worked flat in rows
This helps them decide if the project fits their needs before they start.
Write a Real Description
Skip the marketing stuff. Instead of “adorable little bear that’s so cute!”, try: “A 10-inch amigurumi bear worked in one piece with minimal sewing. Perfect for beginners learning color changes.”
Step 2: Materials Section, Leave Nothing to Guesswork
This section can make or break pattern success. Be specific.
Yarn Information
List everything:
- Brand and color used: “Cascade 220, Navy (8393)”
- Yarn weight: Category 4 / Worsted Weight
- Yardage needed: “Approximately 200 yards (180 meters)”
- Where to buy it: Optional but helpful
Yarn Substitutions
Help readers who can’t find your exact yarn:
Any “write the type” weight yarn will work.
Hook Size and Notions
Be complete:
- Hook size with US and metric: “G/6 (4.0 mm)”
- All notions needed with specifics: “6mm safety eyes (2), polyester stuffing (about 2 cups), tapestry needle”
Step 3: Gauge Matters (Yes, Even for Amigurumi)
Many pattern writers skip gauge. Don’t be one of them, tbh I was one of them when I first started writing patterns.
Even if gauge isn’t critical for your project, include it. Format it like this:
“Gauge: 16 stitches and 18 rounds = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet, worked in continuous rounds”
Add this note for flexibility:
Gauge is not critical for this project, but your stitches must be tight enough that stuffing doesn’t show through. If your fabric has visible gaps, go down a hook size.
Step 4: The Abbreviations Section (But Make It Simple)
Every pattern needs an abbreviation guide.
Use standard abbreviations from the Craft Yarn Council.
Format as a clean list, NOT a table:
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
- dec – invisible decrease (sc two stitches together)
- sl st – slip stitch
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- MC – Main Color
- FO – Fasten Off
If you use special stitches, explain them here or link to a tutorial.
Step 5: Write Instructions People Can Actually Follow
This is where most patterns fail and here’s how to do it right.
One Instruction Per Line
Format instructions so they’re easy to scan:
Rnd 1: Magic ring, 6 sc into ring. (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: (Sc, inc) around. (18)
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) around. (24)
Rnd 5-8: Sc in each st around. (24)
See how clean that is?
Each round is its own line.
The stitch count is at the end in parentheses.
Always Include Stitch Counts
Put the total stitch count at the end of EVERY row or round.
This lets makers check their work as they go.
If a round stays the same over multiple rounds, you can write it like this:
Rnd 5-8: Sc in each st around. (24)
Add Checkpoints
After major sections, tell readers what to expect:
Checkpoint: After Round 8, your piece should measure approximately 3 inches across.
This catches errors early before they become disasters.
Insert Action Points
Tell readers when to stuff, attach eyes, or prepare for assembly:
Stuffing Point: Start stuffing the piece firmly now and continue as you go, or mark here and attach the nose later.
Eye Placement: Position safety eyes between Rounds 12 and 13, about 6 stitches apart. Secure backs before continuing.
Avoid Confusing Tables
Tables look organized but they’re terrible for following patterns.
When you’re crocheting, you need to glance at one line, do it, then move to the next.
Tables force you to track across rows and columns.
Use line-by-line formatting instead. It’s more readable when your hands are full of yarn.
Step 6: Special Techniques and Helpful Notes
Include a notes section for anything that might confuse readers.
Explain Special Stitches
If you use an invisible decrease, magic ring, or any technique that varies between patterns, spell it out:
Invisible Decrease: Insert hook into front loop of first stitch, then front loop of second stitch. Yarn over, pull through both front loops. Yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
Share Helpful Tips
Add notes that save frustration:
- If your piece starts to cup or ruffle, you may be working too tightly. Try a larger hook.
- Don’t worry if the piece looks wonky at first, it evens out after Round 10.
- Leave a 12-inch tail when fastening off for easier assembly.
Step 7: Assembly Instructions That actually work
If your pattern has multiple pieces, assembly guidance is crucial.
Use Numbered Steps
Step 1: Add Face Details
Using black embroidery floss, embroider eyes between Rounds 12 and 13, approximately 6 stitches apart. For sleepy eyes, create small horizontal lines 3 stitches long.
Step 2: Attach Arms
Pin arms to body at Round 15, centered about 4 stitches apart. Sew securely using whipstitch and matching yarn color.
Step 3: Final Touches
Weave in all ends. Give your piece a gentle reshape if needed. Hand wash in cold water, lay flat to dry.
Add Placement Guidance
Tell readers exactly where things go:
- Position ears at Round 8, centered 10 stitches apart
- Attach tail at center back, 3 rounds up from bottom
Vague instructions like “attach arms to sides” leave too much room for error.
Step 9: Before You Publish | The Final Checklist
Don’t skip this step.
Have People Test Your Pattern
Find 2-3 crocheters at your pattern’s skill level. Ask them to follow it exactly as written, no assumptions, no fixes.
Their feedback will reveal:
- Confusing instructions
- Missing information
- Math errors
- Unclear assembly steps
couldn’t find another crocheter, then test it yourself from the written pattern, not from your memory.
Read It Out Loud
Seriously. Read your entire pattern out loud. Does it flow? Do the instructions make sense? Are you repeating yourself unnecessarily?
Verify Every Stitch Count
Go through each round and make sure your math is correct.
An increase round should actually increase the stitch count.
Decrease rounds should actually decrease it.
Check Materials Accuracy
Confirm your yardage, hook size, and notion quantities are correct. Nothing frustrates makers more than running out of yarn halfway through because you underestimated.
Add Copyright Information
Protect your work:
“© 2025 [Your Name]. This pattern is for personal use only. You may sell finished items made from this pattern with credit to [Your Name] at [YourWebsite.com]. Do not reproduce, share, distribute, or resell this pattern in any form without written permission.”
Take Your Pattern Writing to the Next Level
Writing clear crochet patterns gets easier with practice. Start simple, a dishcloth or simple amigurumi.
Focus on being thorough rather than fancy.
PRO TIP: write as if you’re writing for a 5 years old.
As you gain confidence, you’ll develop your own style while keeping the essentials:
- Complete materials list
- Accurate instructions with stitch counts
- Helpful notes and tips
- Clear assembly guidance
The best crochet pattern is one that makes your reader think “I actually enjoyed making this” instead of “That was confusing.”
Ready to format your patterns professionally?
Download my complete crochet pattern template with all the sections, formatting, and structure you need to create patterns people love.
Frequently Asked Questions About Writing Crochet Patterns
How long should a crochet pattern be?
As long as it needs to be for clarity. A simple dishcloth might be 2 pages. A complex garment could be 15+ pages. Prioritize clarity over brevity.
Do I need to test every pattern before publishing?
Yes. Have at least 2-3 people test your pattern to catch errors and unclear instructions before you publish or sell it.
What’s the difference between US and UK crochet terms?
They use different names for the same stitches. A US single crochet is a UK double crochet. Always specify which terms you’re using in your pattern.
Can I sell items made from other people’s patterns?
Check the pattern’s copyright terms. Most designers allow selling finished items with credit, but some don’t. When writing your own patterns, clearly state your policy.
Should I offer my patterns for free or charge for them?
Start with a mix. Offer simpler patterns free to build an audience and trust. Charge for complex, well-tested patterns that required significant time and effort.
How do I calculate yarn yardage for my pattern?
Weigh your finished project. Check your yarn label for yards per gram. Multiply your project weight by yards per gram, then add 10% extra for safety.
What file format should I use for digital patterns?
PDF is standard. It preserves formatting, can’t be easily edited, and works on any device. Make sure it’s optimized so file size isn’t huge.
